Open-Pollinated, Heirloom & Homestead SeedsEspecially adapted for Northern GardensHints for Growing Tomatoes and Peppers from SeedIt is easy to grow your own tomatoes from seed; peppers require a bit more skill and time. Here are some useful hints: Start earlyStart tomatoes 6 weeks before the date of the usual last frost. In most inland areas around mid-April. Start peppers a month earlier in March. Bottom waterI have found that all starts do better if trays are placed in water and allowed to wick the water or fertilizer solution up from the bottom. You will water less and the soil stays lighter. After the pot or tray has absorbed liquid, take from the water and drain. Some clear plastic over the tray will help retain moisture till the seeds sprout and get roots going. Bottom heatPeppers love some sort of warmth from below. Try heating a pad or putting them on something warm. Warm, not hot. 70 degrees F is good for peppers. FertilizeI find that seedlings all like some sort of seaweed solution when watered. Once they are transplanted, they need rich soil, and peppers need extra calcium and magnesium. Put 5 match heads in each pepper pot. The heads will dissolve, giving them the sulfur that they need. Harden offYou must toughen up these starts before placing them outside. You can place then out in the day and bring them in at night. Cold frames are an ideal in between place to get them gradually used to cooler temperatures. Peppers are tropical plants and particularly sensitive. They don't like temperatures less than 50 degrees F, and they can be tricky to grow here in Chesaw where summer nights are often very cool and frosts can occur in July. We grow 15 kinds of peppers at the Chesaw test gardens, from the fiery habanero to anchos . Cold frames, remay, and protected places help. Try the south side of buildings. Peppers love that heat. All that's left is to eat them fresh from the garden and, if you have a surplus, make salsa or dry them. All hot peppers can be easily dried for use all winter long. |
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